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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.